Fixing My Brakes: Part 2 - Installing Flexible Stainless Steel Brake Lines
In Part 1, I walked through the process of trying to fix my brakes by doing a complete brake bleed, replacing my LSPV for a manual valve, and finally replacing my 20 year old rubber brake lines. This article I’ll walk through the process of removing your old rubber lines, and installing new stainless steel lines. My truck is a non-ABS version, so there will be some differences if you have ABS.
Tools and supplies needed:
Brake Bleeding Tool (helpful if doing this solo)
After finishing the install of the new valve, I worked on removing my rear rubber line; make sure to move a catch pan under it before starting to work. Start by removing the hard brake line that runs from the new valve to the rubber portion using a 10mm wrench. Once removed, take a flat head screwdriver and push the lock plate out of the way (pliers help) (Picture #4).
Jiggle the fitting loose of the bracket. Now disconnect the other end above the axle using a 17mm open ended wrench. Install your Wheelers stainless brake line in reverse order, only difference is you use the 14mm here. Once complete, bleed your rear brakes starting with the passenger side and then the driver side; I bled until clear new fluid was coming through. Be sure to check before and during bleeding that your master cylinder isn't too low and top off as needed. Rear brakes are done (Picture #5). Side note: The Wheelers Kit is also helpful if you ever plan on lifting the rear.
On to the Fronts. Lift up the passenger side and remove the wheel (and use a jackstand...just not from Harbor Freight). Put your catch pan under the lines and work on removing the 12mm bolt that holds bracket in the middle of the brake line (Pic 6).
Remove the top hard brake line connection using a 10mm and once removed, pop off the lock plate and the top of the rubber line should drop free. Next remove the 10mm hard line connection at the caliper and chuck the old brake line out of the way. Install the new line, reusing the lock plate and 12mm bolt for the guide plate. Make sure you use the shorter banjo bolts as the ones that come with it are about 1/8-1/4" too long; I also found a 12mm wrench worked better to tighten them rather than a socket (and don't forget your crush washers). Bleed the caliper with an 8mm wrench and test for leaks (Picture #7). Once complete, put everything back together and repeat on the driver's side.
The difference doing these things was dramatic. I did have to adjust my rear valve a bit as it was pushing most of the brake power to the rear, but once tweaked, a firm push of the brakes will slam me forward like I hit something. Hopefully it helps your truck do the same. Down the road, I may look at doing a T100 master cylinder / brake booster swap and go with Geoff’s 14WA brake upgrades...but for now, I have zero complaints about braking power.
